Remote and sparsely populated Iceland may be, but there are surprises waiting in every fjord. Giant outdoor granite eggs lined up along the coast represent the 34 species of birds in the area. A café and live music venue offering home-produced crisps made from the root vegetables growing alongside the track to the farm and own-label artisan beer. Just visible through a lingering mist, a herd of reindeer grazing peacefully on the low lying vegetation beside the road. Back along the coast, and across the mouth of the fjord, huge slabs of magnificent columnar basalt lying unevenly at the base of the next headland. And then lunch, and the speciality of the house: a superb and substantial seafood soup in a little hotel that relies on guests and visitors to help maintain this tiny settlement, population around 50.